Jati Khollu (5,421m), south face
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Hampaturi Group
Author: Chris Clarke.
Climb Year: 2013.
Publication Year: 2014.
On July 8, Gregg Beisly (NZ), Paul Meehan (US), and I left La Paz at around 6 a.m. with the intention of climbing water ice in the valley containing Laguna Jachcha Khasiri, the same valley used to access the regular route (southeast ridge) on Jati Khollu (see AAJ 2012). After the water ice failed to materialize, we climbed what we believe to be a new route on Jati Khollu's ca 400m south face. This follows a gully several hundred meters to the left of the other routes. After a few hundred meters of moderate snow, ice, and mixed ground, the route joins the large snowfield that leads to a col just north of the summit. A loose pitch of rock gained the top. The overall grade was AD.
Media Gallery
(A) Cerro Tigra Killa, (B) Unnamed, and (C) Jati Khollu from the southwest. (1) Southeast ridge (AD), climbed in 2012 by Gregg and Sal Beisly. (2) South face gully (AD, Beisly-Clarke-Meehan, 2013). (3) South face and southeast ridge (AD+, Brain-Davis, 1995, now probably no longer practical due to glacial recession). (4) Southeast ridge (PD/AD, Heung-Rauch, 2012).
Gregg Beisly
Paul Meehan on the final broken ridge leading to the summit of Jati Khollu. The lake visible below is the relatively new, upper laguna mentioned by Janette Heung in her 2013 AAJ report.
Gregg Beisly
Chris Clarke beginning an attempt on one of the attractive granite spires to the east of Jati Khollu in the Hampaturi Group. These ca 300m towers, rising above 5,000m, were still unclimbed at the end of the 2013 season.
Eduardo Unzueta