Muzkol Range, High Traverse and First Ascents

Tajikistan, Pamir
Author: Oleg Silin. Climb Year: 2014. Publication Year: 2015.

During late July and August, a Latvian team did a two-week east-to-west traverse of the Muzkol Range, starting in the Ak Baital Valley and exiting the Zortash Valley. They completed several possible first ascents along the way, including Peak 5,580m, Peak 5,560m, and Peak 5,582m (Russian 4A, 38°27’24.8”N, 73°31’05.1”E). The latter was one of “six great peaks at the end of the valley,” possibly all previously unclimbed. Traveling light for the long traverse, the team did not have enough technical equipment to attempt the others. Farther west, they did the third ascents of White Pyramid (6,038m) and Zortash (6,121m).

[Editor’s note: In August 2013, Oleg Silin and partners reported the first ascents of Khafraz Peak (6,128m) and Riga Peak (5,608m) in the Yazgulem Range of the Western Pamir. For more information search http://www.traverss.lv.]



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