American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Kosh Moynok Valley, First Ascents

Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Kichi Alai

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Michal Kleslo
  • Climb Year: 2014
  • Publication Year: 2015

Our group of six Czech and Slovak climbers visited the Kosh Moynok valey of the Kichi Alai mountains (a.k.a. Kichik Alai) in September. Approaching from the Kichi Alai valley, we reached base camp at ca 3,400m in two days. From here we climbed three peaks with no sign or record of previous ascents. Stanislav Ceip and Ondrej Uher climbed the northeast face and north ridge of the northern of two peaks southwest of base camp, which they called Palestra Peak (4,750m). Tibor Majer, Stefan Matuska, and I climbed 70th Anniversary of SNU Peak (4,880m), winding up a glacier from the north, with steep ice and powder snow near the top. Vladimir Bures and Matuska climbed Bars Peak (4,880m) via 400m of ice up to 50° on the west side, then followed the north ridge to the top.

Michal Kleslo, Czech Republic

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