Jake Dayley and I made the first ascent of a spire in Mormon Canyon, on the north side of the drainage, directly across from Earth Angel. The route follows a crack system on the west face before traversing to the southwest aspect of the summit block. We placed one bolt at the belay for pitch two and a two-bolt rappel anchor on the summit: A Better Way To Die (2 pitches, 190’, 5.10+ R/X). The climbing is funky, thin, burly, and committing. Props to Jake, who forgot his harness that day in October but still agreed to climb with a bowline tied around his waist. We named the spire after Tim Toula and the route after Tim’s 1995 guidebook to the area, which is famously sparse on information, for those who like a taste of the unknown. “T.N.T.” has left an indelible mark on Sedona climbing with his prolific and bold first ascents. He knows how to “bust a move,” even if the rock is crumbling and the gear is bad. We follow in his footsteps with trepidation and respect! We want this spire to be a tribute to a mentor, inspiration, and friend.

– Jake Tipton