In March, early in the 2014 season, Alberto Hung (Peru) and I climbed Nevado Tatajayco (5,342m) by a new route up the northwest ridge, which we called A Puro Huevo (D UIAA V M3 60°). We approached from the town of San Mateo and established a base camp in the Quiullacocha Valley, near the glacial lakes of the same name (ca 4,600m). We made our ascent in one day, on March 22, and descended the west side.

Nevado Tatajayco is located in the middle of Quiullacocha Valley, in the Cordillera Central, approximately 100km from Lima. Peruvian mountaineers first climbed the peak in 2003 by easy glacial slopes on the west side. This route has been repeated twice: by English climbers in 2011 and by Peruvian climbers in 2012. Thus we believe our ascent was the fourth overall.

This part of the Cordillera Central is also known as the Cordillera Pariacaca because Nevado Pariacaca (5,750m, a.k.a. Tulluqutu) is the highest mountain in the area. This region is rarely visited by foreign climbers, despite beautiful landscapes, many 5,000m peaks, and impressive glacial valleys. With very few routes, the mountaineering potential is impressive.

Steve Meder, France