Various first ascents and traverses

Antarctica, Heritage Range
Author: Damien Gildea. Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

Ralf Laier returned for his third expedition to the Heritage Range, climbing with Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions (ALE) guides Maria Paz “Pachi” Ibarra (Chile) and Seth Timpano (USA). They traveled by Sno-Cat from Union Glacier Camp northwest up the Schanz Glacier, with the aim of making a long, alpine-style traverse of the Soholt Peaks. Starting west of Hessler Peak on December 19, they made the first ascent of the northernmost peak, traversed over the summit, and then climbed the northern slope of Eley Peak (2,280m), which they also traversed. They descended to a campsite at 2,100m, and next day they continued south along the narrow crest, climbing over a number of small tops and one 2,300m summit, which they named Lillywhite Peak. After some tricky mixed climbing over gendarmes in high winds, they descended to a glacier, intending to continue their traverse the next day. However, forecasts of even higher winds forced a return to Union Glacier. 

On December 26 they resumed their traverse, attempting the next peak south along their line, which they named Cerro Catedral. Unfortunately, they turned back 40m from the summit after finding loose 5.7 rock above an icy couloir. Moving over to the west, they made the second ascent of Macalester Peak, one of the highest of the Soholt Peaks, by the northwest ridge. Poor weather prevented an attempt on Bursik Peak, and the trio finished by descending an icefall back to the eastern side of the range for a pickup on the Schanz Glacier.

Several of the Soholt Peaks, including Macalester and Eley, were climbed in January 1994 by the British Antarctic Survey team of Mike Curtis and Brian Hull. Other peaks in the area had been climbed by New Zealand geologists Paul Fitzgerald and Charlie Hobbs.



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