Peak 1,960m, south face
Argentina-Chile, Northern Patagonia, Aysén Region
After looking for a partner for days, I made the decision of going on a solo trip to climb the unnamed Peak 1,960m, which I had seen on a previous expedition. The peak is located on the north side of the Rio Leones, west of Claro River. A few locals refer to the peak by the nickname “Nariz de Eleuterio.”
On March 5, I drove south from Coyhaique to Valle Leones to the Meliquina area. From Valle Leones I drove west on an old dirt road to reach my jumping off point. I then set up a pack raft to cross the Leones River from the north side to the south side. After crossing the river and approaching for a few hours on foot, I decided to set up camp. This is the same approach as for San Valentin, further northwest on the icefield. Early the next morning I set out for the climb. An hour approach brought me to the base of the south face. I took a rope and a set of friends and some slings just in case. On the first part of the wall I climbed through some steep and loose areas. Above, I reached a ledge below the most difficult part of the route (5.6). After around 45 more minutes of climbing I reached another steep section before the terrain eased off. My ascent took about two hours, and I did not find evidence of previous ascents (500m, AD, 5.6). I left a cairn on top with a note then mostly downclimbed the route. It took me two and a half hours to reach my car from the base, but not without some adventures crossing the river again.
Pedro Binfa, Chile