Peruvian climbers Jorge “Coqui” Gálvez, Dominique Riva Roveda, and Manolo Urquizo made the first ascent of the east face of Nevado Capacsaya (5,044m). They entered the range from the southwest, from Capacsaya, traveling past the Pumahuanca Valley, the village of Sutoc (ca 3,750m), and Laguna Manalyosec (ca 4,050m). Once past the lake, they established high camp on the glacier beneath the east face, part of large cirque of numerous steep walls.

On October 1 at 7 a.m. they began climbing 100m of easy mixed terrain (60º) up a left-trending ramp, finding bad conditions. Steeper climbing was bypassed via chimneys interspersed with snow climbing. Upon reaching a large ledge system, they traversed right to reach a prominent right-facing dihedral, the crux of the route (70m, 6c+ A1). Above, four easier pitches (250m) and some scrambling along the upper ridge brought the team to the central summit by late morning. They descended the same route (450m, 6C+ A1).