American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Nevado Shaqsha, west face, Würmligrübler (no summit)

Peru, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sergio Ramírez Carrascal, Peru, with information from David Hefti
  • Climb Year: 2013
  • Publication Year: 2014

After climbing Karma de Los Cóndores (300m, 5.11+, AAJ 2005) in the Ishinca Valley, Swiss climbers David Hefti, Marcel Probst, Mathias Schick, and Florian Zwahlen, set up their tents at the foot of Nevado Shaqsha (5,703m).

After a day of reconnaissance, they located a promising crack system through the steep rock wall on the west face. On July 23 at 4 a.m., the Swiss team departed their base camp (ca 4,500m). After passing a small lake and the bergschrund, the team started the difficult climbing at ca 5,350m, where they climbed two pitches, 5c (35m) and 6c+ (65m) before gaining a big dihedral. The route continued up the corner at 6b (30m). Above the corner, an easy ramp brought them to the most difficult part of the route, two hard pitches of 7a+ (40m) and 7a (35m), which ended with a final pitch in a chimney. After six total pitches, the team topped out the wall. Above, they climbed 60m of 60° snow and ice, reaching a highpoint of ca 5,600m on the summit ridge. [This high point is a small top adjacent to Shaqsha’s southwestern summit (point 5,697m)]. They did four rappels down their route and downclimbed over the bergschrund. The climbers returned to base camp at 8 p.m., calling their route Würmligrübler (240m, 7a+ 60°). Much of the route consists of clean, finger and hand-sized cracks.

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