In August, Carlo Cosi, Enrico Geremia, Nicolò Geremia, and I climbed two new routes up the impressive west face of Lower Guvercinlik (3,000m) in the Emli Valley. None of us knew the area, so our first two days were spent wandering through the park in search of rock to climb, until the majestic Lower Guvercinlik—known locally as Tranga Tower—threw its spell on us. This peak soars upward for 600m and is comprised of strange limestone: Good crimps are few and far between! To reach the base you need to walk for two and a half hours, so we decided to set up a small base camp beneath the face.

Brothers Enrico and Nicolò Geremia chose a line between the looming roof in the lower half of the wall and the Larcher-Oviglia route Come to Derwish (600m, 7b (7a obl), 2006). They used a variety of bolts, pegs, and cams to create Atomic Folder (600m, 7b+/c (7b obl) A1), which I reckon is a masterpiece. Knowing how to place gear and progress up technical slabs is the name of the game, all the way to the summit.

Carlo and I climbed a line circa 50m to the right, and in establishing Mostro Turco we decided to use bolts only, since the compact rock did not accept any trad pro after the first easy pitch. Pitch three is a spectacular 35m 8a on micro-holds, climbed by Super Carletto. The route then heads left along small cracks, slabs, ramps, and sections that ultimately were breached, after a grueling battle, with aid. With great regret for having failed to free this section, we continued until we joined pitch seven of Atomic Folder via a long traverse above the lip of an immense void. Oh well, Mostro Turco (650m, 8a (7b+ obl) A1) will be a great free-climbing project for our next expedition—or for other strong climbers!

Andrea Simonini, Italy, via PlanetMountain.com