Pico Titán (4,263m), East Face
South America, Argentina/Chile, Central Andes
Pico Titán (4,263m) is situated on the Cordón de Límite in the Central Andes, 6km northwest of Cristo Redentor, near the Argentinean-Chilean frontier. Given its proximity to the village of Las Cuevas and the Portillo ski center, it is fairly easy to access. Nonetheless, this peak remained unnamed until September 2010, when a group led by Luciano Fiorenza reached the summit by the north face from Chorrillos Valley, Argentina.
On October 10,2011, Lito Sánchez and I made the second ascent of the peak by a new route on the east face from the Caracoles Valley. First, we climbed a diagonal snow corridor (200m, 45°), which is the most obvious route. We traversed to the northern corridor, and finally reached the summit by the east ridge (UIAA III). We descended by the same route. For those who want to repeat this route, we suggest starting very early in the morning in order to avoid falling rocks, snow, or ice.
Editor's Note: This report has not appeared in a print edition of the AAJ.