Mustabbes Valley, Various First Ascents

Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, At Bashi Range
Author: Paul Josse. Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

A five-man British expedition comprised of Steve Brown, Paul Josse, Terje Lokken (Norway), Phil Morgan, and John Venier spent 12 days in late August exploring the glaciers around the western headwaters of the Mustabbes River. Various members of the team made the probable first ascents of eight peaks, ranging from 4,430m–4,646m in elevation, and from F to AD in difficulty.

An ISM expedition led by Pat Littlejohn had journeyed up the Mustabbes River, on the south side of the At Bashi, in 2010, making the first ascents of eight summits above the eastern glacier (AAJ 2011). The 2013 expedition climbed above two advanced base camps, on the central glacier and below the far western glacier, as well as a base camp by the Mustabbes River. Among the fine peaks climbed was Peak Katushka (4,640m GPS), by the east ridge (Brown-Josse-Lokken, PD), above the central glacier. Brown, Josse, and Lokken later climbed Peak Chatir (4,646m) via the southeast face and east ridge (PD), above the west glacier, and then traversed south along the dividing ridge between the west and far western glaciers to reach Peak Kargan Semiz (4,550m, AD), before descending via the northwest ridge to the far west glacier. A full report on this expedition, with maps and photos, is available by downloading this PDF.




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