Peak 5,860m, southeast ridge; Ihakora mystery

Pakistan, Masherbrum Mountains
Author: Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO. Climb Year: 2012. Publication Year: 2013.

While completing the classic trek from Skardu up the Baltoro Glacier and over the Gondokhoro La to Hushe, Anis Hussain, Raza Meer, Zakir Hussain Sadpare, Fida Ali Sultanpa (all Pakistan, the first a guide), and Carlos Penalva (Spain) climbed unnamed Peak 5,860m (GPS) via the southeast ridge. They reached the top on August 15.

This small summit at 35.67903° N, 76.4872° E, which according to Anis Hussain had been climbed before, lies immediately above the so-called Ali Camp at the entrance to the West Vigne Glacier, and at the end of the long ridge running southeast from a peak marked on many maps as Ihakora (6,172m). But is this mountain really Ihakora?

In 1955, Henry Francis, Craig Merrihue, John Noxon, and Arthur Read, members of the Harvard Karakoram Expedition, explored the north and northeast branches of the Gondokhoro Glacier but were unable to find a pass north to the Vigne Glacier and upper Baltoro. Before moving back south to explore the Chogolisa Glacier, they climbed several peaks, and photographic evidence suggests that one of these, which gave them their only views over the Vigne and Baltoro, lay at the northeast apex of the Gondokhoro north branch (north of Vigne Pass). They climbed this on July 25, referring to it Jharokha, and making a rough altitude estimate of over 6,200m. On modern maps this mountain would appear to be unnamed Peak 6,170m, at the apex of the North Gondokhoro and West Vigne Glaciers. This, then, should be the real Ihakora.

Penalva guesses the Ihakora marked on maps has probably been climbed; it doesn't seem particularly difficult, and is advertised by trekking agencies.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, from information provided by Carlos Penalva



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