Failure to Follow Route, Rapid Ascent, Party Separated, Climbing Unroped, Weather, Washington, Mount Rainier

Publication Year: 1987.

FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, RAPID ASCENT, PARTY SEPARATED, CLIMBING UNROPED, WEATHER

Washington, Mount Rainier

On July 5,1986, climbers Frank Amenta (24) and Philip Rosenthal (33) became disoriented in a white out and descended Willis Wall instead of their intended route of the Emmons Glacier followig their successful ascent of Liberty Ridge on July 3. The climbing party bivouacked at 3680 meters on Willis Wall on July 4 and continued their descent of Willis Wall on July 5. Rosenthal fell behind Amenta due to altitude sickness and possible pulmonary edema, and they became separated on July 5 around 0900 near the 3520 meter level of the East Rib of Willis Wall. Amenta descended solo and suffered a brokenleg around the 2750 meter level of Willis Wall. Amenta was rescued by myself and Ranger Chase from the 2630 meter level of the upper Carbon Glacier utilizing a Bell 206 helicopter at 1945 on July 5. Amenta was evacuated to Kautz Creek and transported by ambulance to Good Samaritan Hospital in Puyallup where he was admitted with a broken leg. Rosenthal was located by helicopter on July 6 at 0720 at the 3375 meter level on the west flank of Curtis Ridge. He was rescued via a one-skid landing from a rock outcrop by the Bell 206 helicopter after indicating to me via hand signals that he wished to be rescued and was sick/injured. Rosenthal was evacuated to Kautz Creek and transported via ambulance to Good Samaritan Hospital at our request for evaluation of possible pulmonary edema. Rosenthal reportedly refused treatment at the hospital and was released by ambulance crew enroute. (Source: Roger Semler, Ranger, Mount Rainier National Park)

Analysis

This incident appears to be a classic example of climbers getting into terrain beyond their capabilities after becoming disoriented in whiteout conditions and getting off their intended route. It also appears that their rate of ascent contributed to the altitude sickness and pulmonary edema experienced by Rosenthal. Both of their packs were extremely light and I question their preparedness for multi-bivouacs on the upper mountain. During the actual rescue, there was no doubt in my mind that both victims desired to be rescued. In particular, the situation with Rosenthal warranted immediate rescue due to the objective rock and ice fall hazards he was subjected to and his confirmation via hand signals that he wished to be lifted off the wall and was also sick/injured. The successful use of the one-skid landing on Willis Wall also proved to be the quickest and safest rescue technique considering all the objective hazards and the uncertainty of an ETA for a hoisting-capable helicopter. (Source: Roger Semler, Ranger, Mount Rainier National Park)