Fall on Snow, Inadequate Equipment, Climbing Unroped, Alaska, Mount McKinley

Publication Year: 1986.

FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, CLIMBING UNROPED

Alaska, Mount McKinley

On May 4, 1985, at 1630, Siegfried Mayer (45), a member of the Schwardzwalder-Alaska- Bergfahrt-Expedition, was descending from the summit of Mt. McKinley. He was unroped and his ice ax was “unavailable.” He slipped and fell 200-300 meters from the 6900 meter level, then fell into a crevasse, landing on a snow ledge five meters down. After a period of unconsciousness, Mayer came to. A rope was lowered with two foot loops, and he was able to climb from the crevasse. Mayer experienced some numbness in one hand and had upper back and neck pain. Two emergency room doctors on the scene recommended evacuation. A helicopter evacuated him to Humana Hospital in Anchorage. Observation and X-rays revealed no cervical injuries. (Source: Jon Waterman, Mountaineering Ranger, Denali National Park)

Analysis

Looking through the retrospectoscope, it is clear that anyone who can climb out of a crevasse on a rope does not have a serious spinal cord injury. Neck injuries are particularly troublesome for both pre-hospital workers and ER doctors. Everyone is taught to immobilize the cervical spine for the slightest amount of trauma. That’s OK for ambulance drivers minutes away from the ER. It’s different on Denali. People unconscious from a head injury or paralyzed from a spinal injury are quite easy to recognize, and obviously need air evacuation if at all possible. People who have head injuries but can walk and talk and breathe may need further evaluation, but are most likely going to do fine. Climbers complaining of a sore neck who can move all their extremities and climb out of a crevasse may have minor injuries, but certainly do not warrant risk of life to be “rescued.” Nor is walking off the mountain in any way going to provide anywhere near the stress on the neck that the accident did. In other words, it’s a big myth that not immobilizing the neck is going to allow any further damage to occur. Also, there is no reason a climber can’t walk out wearing a cervical collar immobilizer made of ensolite, for example. It does provide some support, both for the climber’s and his companions’ sense of well-being.

Doctors and other health professionals coming across an accident on the mountain are perhaps in a difficult position. They may not realize that there is little need to be concerned about legal liability, and they therefore may tend to act inappropriately by overreacting. Common sense needs to prevail. NPS personnel may have to act contrary to the wishes of a doctor on the scene, but they may have a better perspective from which to make a decision. I think it should be made clear to all climbing parties that emergency air evacuation is only appropriate for life and death situations. Climbers incapacitated and needing transport off the mountain, but without life-threatening problems, can usually be taken to a safe evacuation site and wait, if necessary, for safe flying weather. (Source: Dr. Peter Hackett, Denali Medical Research Group)

Editor’s Note: For additional perspectives on this kind of accident, see ANAM, 1985, p. 35; the AA News, September 1985, pp. 16-17; and the Aft. McKinley May 26 accident which follows in this report.)