Loss of Control — Voluntary Glissade, Faulty Use of Crampons, Fatigue, Inexperience — Washington, Mount Rainier

Publication Year: 1983.

LOSS OF CONTROL–VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE

Washington, Mount Rainier

On August 28, 1982, around noon, Brian Goldstein (27), Gordon Watters, James McCall and Robert Taylor left Paradise for Camp Muir, arriving at 1530 hours. The next morning at 0200 hours, the party left for the summit. At about 4600 meters, they decided to turn around due to fatigue. Just below the level of the top of the Cleaver, Goldstein decided to glissade from about 3850 meters. As not all of his party wanted to slide down, Goldstein unroped and began glissading. He said he picked up so much speed that he became frightened and attempted to stop by jabbing his crampons into the hard snow. He apparently was not that familiar with self-arrest techniques, although he claimed to have practiced them just a month before. He said he jabbed his crampons into the snow which caused both of his ankles to be flexed outward at extreme angles, especially his right ankle, possibly fracturing it. He was unable to move. RMI Guide Edwards and Ranger Philips quickly headed up from Camp Muir. Goldstein’s condition was quickly evaluated and, with the help also of RMI Guide Target and a strong client named Peter, he was slid, carried and littered down from the northeast side of Disappointment Cleaver (3750 meters). They arrived at Camp Muir about 2130 hours.

The next day, Goldstein was banana-boated down from Camp Muir with the help of several independent climbers. The group met an NPS team at Pebble Creek and continued down to Paradise, arriving at 1330 hours. (Source: Bundy Philips, Ranger, Mount Rainier National Park)

Analysis

The narrative is self-explanatory. It is worth commenting that the frequency of accidents involving crampons as a means of attempting to self-arrest while glissading is diminishing; this is an encouraging sign. (Source: J. Williamson)