California, San Bernadino Range, Mt. San Gorgonio

Publication Year: 1967.

California, San Bernardino Range, Mt. San Gorgonio. On 23 December, Michael Daugherty (26), Charles Heifer (21), and Joseph Hara (50) were descending the route of ascent and the accident occurred about 500 feet below the summit on the North side. At the time of the accident the party was cramponning down a hard snow slope of no greater than 35° which connected the summit ridge with a wooded ridge separating two somewhat steeper (about 40°) couloirs. This was the only place on the climb (about 100 yards) that had any exposure. The rest of the climb either was on lower angle or heavily wooded. The party was descending unroped using crampons and ice axes.

About 100 feet above the upper end of the wooded ridge, the party was proceeding in file when the last member of the party (Hara) fell. This occurred about 3:00 p.m. The first two members of the party turned and saw Hara sliding downward on his back, feet first, with his ice axe firmly grasped in both hands and held above him. They both shouted to him to roll over in order to execute a self arrest. Hara appeared to make no attempt to do this and slid down into the broad couloir on the East side of the ridge, gaining speed and disappearing from sight.

Daugherty and Heifer descended the wooded ridge and found Hara, severely injured (probably from hitting rock and trees on the way down), in a small tree protruding from the snow toward the bottom of the couloir, approximately 500 feet below where he fell. They cut a platform in the snow and removed Hara from the tree, placing him on the platform. Heifer then proceeded to the roadhead and summoned aid while Daugherty administered first aid. Hara died at approximately 4:00 p.m.

Source: Michael Daugherty, Charles Heifer, and David Harrah

Analysis: (Harrah) It is possible that this accident could have been prevented if the party had been roped. On the other hand, the route lay along relatively gentle terrain, with optimal conditions for crampon walking; the conditions were such that a slip and fall did not seem at all likely. Hara had had some instruction in the use of the ice axe, and he had done well on the ascent. Exactly why he slipped, and why he could not regain control, will probably never be known. The most plausible explanation seems to be that he was more deeply affected by fatigue than he or his companions realized.