Idaho, Sawtooth Range, Mt. Heyburn

Publication Year: 1962.

Idaho, Sawtooth Range, Mt. Heyhurn. On August 27, Gerald Fuller (27) and James Ball (34) were attempting an untried sixth-class ascent of the North face of Mt. Heyburn. Fuller had climbed 20 ft. above his belayer to the top of a small block. Then without piton protection climbed another 20 ft. up an extremely difficult perpendicular right-angle corner where a piton was placed for tension. A second tension piton was placed above the first, but before the single rope could be snapped in, the first piton pulled out. Fuller fell a subsequently measured 80 ft. in a series of three bounces before a belay could be effective. He was then lowered to a ledge, the rope secured, and Ball went to his aid. The injured man was unconscious and had severe scalp lacerations and facial abrasions. Fuller regained consciousness but remained confused for approximately 2 hours. First-aid was administered and it was discovered that his left leg was unable to bear weight. The injured climber was lowered by rope approximately 800 ft. to the talus, where he was given all the extra clothing and was, of necessity, left while Ball went for help. An evacuation party was formed and Fuller was later removed to hospital. His injuries were a fractured talus of the left ankle, multiple lacerations of the scalp, fracture of the outer table of the skull, multiple facial abrasions, and multiple contusions.

Source: James D. Ball.