South America, Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Fitz Roy, Various Activity

Publication Year: 2000.

Cerro Fitz Roy, Various Activity. From November 29-December 1, Joe Reichert and Sue Nott climbed to the end of the difficulties on the Californian Route, but strong winds forced them to traverse over to the Franco-Argentine descent route without reaching the summit. They made one bivy in La Brecha while going up and another one on the ridge of Supercanaleta.

The pair also attempted a new line on the east face of Cerro Fitz Roy, just left of the East Pillar (Ferrari) route. They fixed five 60-meter ropes at the top of which they placed their por-taledge, where they spent 15 nights. The first five pitches were slabby (5.9, A2) and the last four above the camp were A3-A4. Bad weather forced them to retreat.

There were countless attempts on the Franco-Argentinian Route in early January, most notably a solo attempt by American Clay Hall, who, on January 16, 2000, climbed to the top of the fifth pitch where he bivouacked. He was forced to retreat the following day due to lack of water and strong winds. Ascents were as follows: Kurt Albert and Bernd Arnold (Germany), January 13; Franz Baumgartner and Mario Rubin (Switzerland), January 13; Nicolas Benedetti and Leonardo Viamonte (Argentina), February 16.

Carlos Garcia and Carlos Suarez (Spain) climbed the Royal Flush route from December 2, 1999 to February, 2000. They completed the route after fixing the first 23 pitches, retreating at the juncture of the El Corazon route, 300 meters from the summit. This was the fourth ascent of the route, which has been completed only once to the summit (Treppte-Gälbe-Schafroth, 1998). On December 27, while recovering their many fixed lines, Carlos Garcia suffered a 30-meter fall when he slipped through the ends of his ropes while rappelling. He was lucky enough to land at the base of the route itself, three pitches above the bergschrund. He was towing several ropes, and as he fell past a prominent flake, one of them got caught and slowed him down considerably. He suffered many torn ligaments.

Rolando Garibotti, Club Andino Bariloche