South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Northern Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents

Publication Year: 1999.

Northern Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents. Frank Van Herreweghe (Andorra) and Marc Gavalda put up two rock routes on minor peaks way to the left of the Obelisco and Halcon peaks: Kawsachun Coca (6b A1, 160m) on June 10, and Uk amaki (6b, 215m) on June 12. On the north face of Cuernos de Diablo (5270m), they put up a new variation (F6b, eight pitches) to the classic North Face route on July 23. The pair reported superb climbing on clean graniodorite with excellent protection. There is an aluminium box left by the 1987 German expedition on the summit for registering ascents. The pair were the 11th to write in the book. On July 25, they put up a new route on the first tower left (from Base Camp) of the obvious flat-topped tower southeast of Pico Halcon. The pair followed a finger-to-fist crack in the middle of the tower, reaching a comer crack after one pitch. They then climbed one full pitch up the comer crack until it became too wide to jam or protect, at which point they veered right for 50 meters. The final pitch brought them to a platform from where they bouldered to the summit. They reported no signs of previous ascents and graded the climb F6b, very mossy.

Yossi Brain, United Kingdom