North America, Canada, Baffin Island, Auyuittuq National Park, Cumberland Peninsula, Ski Mountaineering Expedition
Cumberland Peninsula, Ski Mountaineering Expedition. The objective of our Baffin Island ski mountaineering expedition was to make a self-sufficient 20-day journey in the Cumberland Peninsula mountains, climbing suitable peaks en route with standard alpine ski mountaineering gear. Between April 16 and May 6, the seven-member expedition (Danny Baillie, Rodney Franklin, John Kentish, Ian McKirdy, Graham Rowe, Charles Turner, and I) completed an exploratory journey through the mountains of the Cumberland Peninsula, to the east of the Weasel Valley and to the north of Kingnait Fjord. The Expedition was entirely self-sufficient from the point of drop-off by skidoo, with the supplies and equipment being pulled and carried with a combination of rucksack and specially adapted children’s sledge. After a few days around Mt. Asgard, the team moved southeast out of the Auyuittuq National Park into a very dramatic area of large glaciers and steep rock walls. A fairly circuitous travel of some 150 kilometers was made back to a pick-up at the head of Pangnirtung Fjord. Fourteen peaks were climbed en route. Most summits involved a combination of ascent by ski and foot, generally via the easier-looking ridges. The climbing never exceeded alpine PD+ in technical difficulty. Where possible, we attempted peaks suitable for ski ascent and descent. Climbs had to be accomplished relatively quickly in order to let the journey proceed. Of the peaks climbed, four had names and a further four appeared to have had previous ascents (i.e., caimed and/or recorded ascent). No mention has been found of the remaining six, but even so we would hesitate to claim any first ascents. It is highly likely, though, that many of the ascents were “firsts” in the ski-mountaineering sense. The southwest face of Valhalla Mountain was skied by two members from just below summit rocks to the glacier base, a vertical descent of some 500 meters with an average angle of 40° (max. 45°).
The full list of ascents is as below (together with an approximate alpine grade):
Date
Peak
Grid
Height
Party
Grade
April 18
West Summit of Adluk Peak
LU941971
1820m
DW, CT, IM, RF, D13
F
April 18
Unnamed Peak
LU962988
1850m
GR, JK
F
April 21
Unnamed Peak
MU178895
1920m
DW, CT, GR, IM, RF, DB
F
April 22
Qilaut Mountain
MU243802
2150m
DW, CT, RF. DB
PD+
April 25
Valhalla Mountain
MU290832
1720m
DW, CT, GR, IM, RF, DB
PD+
April 26
Unnamed Peak
MU315812
1660m
DW, CT, GR, IM, RF. DB
F
April 27
Unnamed Peak
MU243745
1900m
DW, CT, GR, IM, RF, DB
F
April 27
Unnamed Peak (Cairned)
MU232756
1680m
DW, DB
PD
May 2
Unnamed Peak
MU056758
1780m
DW, CT, GR, RF, DB
PD
May 2
Unnamed Subsidiary Peak
MU068750
1820m
DW, CT, GR, IM, RF, DB
F
May 3
Unnamed Peak (Cairned)
LU008694
1820m
DW, RF, DB
PD
May 3
Unnamed Peak
MU014682
1550m
DW, DB
F
May 4
Takuniakvik Peak
LU994705
1830m
DW, GR, RF, DB
PD+
May 4
Summit Ridge of Unnamed Peak
MU010674
1650m
DW, DB
F
The weather was generally high pressure with clear skies and little wind. Daytime temperatures ranged from -10°C to -15°C with nighttime lows of -30°C. Travel was restricted on three out of 20 days. Snow cover was good, but of dubious quality, with approximately 30 centimeters of windpack layers overlaying one meter of depth hoar. It was apparently a high snowfall year for the area. John Kentish broke a back molar tooth in half on day four and, in some pain, decided to retreat alone down the Weasel Valley to get treatment.
David Williams, United Kingdom