South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja de la S, Two Solo Routes, and Saint Exupéry Solo, 1994-95

Publication Year: 1995.

Aguja de la S, Two Solo Routes, and Saint Exupéry Solo, 1994-95. I climbed solo two new routes on the Aguja de la S. [It is not clear on which face the climbs were made, but it is believed they were on the east face.—Editor.] Qui Se Souvient des Hommes? (Who Remembers Man?) rises 450 meters and was climbed with fixed ropes and self-belays (ED-, 6c+). I reached the summit on December 24 after three days of preparation. I opened the crux pitch with the help of Jérôme Arpin. Five bolts remain in place. La Femme de ma Vie (The Woman of my Life) also rises 450 meters and also was climbed with fixed ropes and self-belays (ED+, 7a, Al). I reached the summit on January9, 1995 at 11:30 P.M. after four days of preparation. Seven bolts remain in place. This ascent rises to the right of the previous one. I then made the second ascent of Le Petit Prince on the Aguja Saint Exupéry and the first solo of the route (ED+, 6b+, A3). I spent eight days of climbing from my snow cave on the glacier. I bivouacked four times in the snow cave in the bergschrund and three times on a portaledge. I reached the summit on January 20 after climbing capsule-style. Crossing the glacier solo was a serious problem because of the crevasses.

Lionel Daudet, Club Alpin Français