American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, India–Kumaon and Garhwal, Dudh Ganga, 1989

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1992

Dudh Ganga, 1989. From Kedamath village, Dave Pollari and I carried heavy loads over a high pass to Vasuni Tal to make the first ascent of Dudh Ganga (5462 meters, 17,920 feet), which straddles the drainage to the north of the village. The peak rises prominently in the region. On September 30, 1989, we ascended tedious moraines and then a steep, frozen snow gully to rock. We climbed 5.7 in double boots. Fortunately we could protect with pitons and for the descent could set up a proper rappel. Pollari completed the final portion of the climb on ramps and moderate snow, while I waited a few hundred feet below the summit.

Fred Beckey

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