North America, United States, Colorado, Lumpy Ridge

Publication Year: 1991.

Lumpy Ridge. Just right of the first pitch of the Route of All Evil on the Pear, on June 21 Robert Anderson and I climbed Sweet Sabina (5.9+) up a clean slab past two bolts before swinging over the middle of the prominent horizontal ceiling above, which was the crux. This was our first reunion since our Everest East Face climb in 1988. On August 12, Gene Ellis and I climbed a new three-pitch route (II, 5.10-) up the center of the Pear just right of Sweet Sabina, which we called Good Timing. Pitch 1 climbs a slab and blunt areête at the right end of the prominent ceiling, then swings out to a belay at the pine tree on Sweet Sabina. Pitch 2 goes back right and then up the sustained slab (5.10-), where we placed four bolts on lead, just left of the crux pitch of Layton Kor’s route, Slippage. We finished up an obvious 5.6 crack.

Ed Webster