North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Starlight Peak, West Buttress

Publication Year: 1991.

Starlight Peak, West Buttress. From the Palisade Basin, one can see imme diately left (north) of the prominent west-facing wall on the North Palisade a large triangular buttress. The top of the buttress joins a narrow ridge which leads to the summit of Starlight Peak. In early July, Cameron Bums and I started up the center of the buttress and climbed three pitches ranging from 5.9 to 5.10c. The crux was a severely overhanging crack that gained a ledge leading north to a gully. We were so intimidated by this route that we backed off and decided to try our luck the next day. The following day, after regaining our high point via the gully, we encountered an extremely loose and overhanging quartz dihedral which led to the top of the buttress. We then followed the ridge with much 5.7 and 5.8 climbing. After a combined total of 16 pitches, we reached the summit pinnacle. (IV, 5.10c.)

Stephen Porcella