American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1989

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt. The members of our expedition were Dr. Paul Robadey, Pierre Morand, Alexis Bally, Christian Haymoz, Vincent Banderet and I as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on June 5. We placed Camps I, II, III and IV (in the Bazhin Gap) at 4800,6000,6700 and 7300 meters on June 7, 12, 16 and July 12. Most of us had fallen sick, but Banderet kept on to establish the final camp along with the Japanese pair, Haruyuki and Yuka Endo. The next day, July 13, he made a summit attempt, climbing faster than the Japanese. He reached the summit ridge and went to within 80 meters of the top. He had to give up there because the last 80 meters were rock and he was alone and without a rope.

Christian Dupré, Club Alpin Suisse

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.