Tapadan Sar. In June, Phil Bartlett and I visited the Morkhun valley in the northwest Karakoram and made several spirited attempts on the north face of Jur Jur Khona Sar, a tricky 6000er of easy access from the Karakoram Highway. In excessive heat we retreated due to related objective dangers on the route. In late November, Peter Cox, Mike Woolridge and I made the first ascent of Tapadan Sar (6100 meters, 20,013 feet), climbing in five days the 2000-meter south face under winter conditions. This is an adjacent summit to Karun Koh. The weather was crisp, clear and relatively calm throughout, barring one night when strong winds destroyed the fly sheet.

Lindsay Griffin, Alpine Climbing Group