Karcha Parbat. Base Camp of the expedition I led was set up on the true right bank of the Karcha Nala at 14,550 feet beneath the southwest face of Karcha Parbat on August 11. Advance Base was placed at 16,000 feet on August 15. Camp I was established on the west ridge at 17,500 feet on August 19 and Camp II at 18,800 feet on August 22. On August 23, Samarendra Nath Dar, Rabindra Nath Pal, Chayan Chacraborty and high-altitude porters Yograj Thakur and Alam Chand at 5:45 A.M. set out for the summit (6270 meters, 20,570 feet), which they reached at 10:50 A.M. Karcha Parbat had not been attempted since the Irish first ascent of 1977. We followed the Irish route with variations. Ours was the first Indian ascent.

Jiban Krishna Paul, Diganta, Calcutta, India