Asia, India-Garhwal, Meru, South Ridge Attempt

Publication Year: 1987.

Meru, South Ridge Attempt. On July 10 we placed out Base Camp at 4850 meters on the moraine of the Kirti Bamak (glacier) below the foot of the south ridge of Meru. Our objective had been the east face of Thalay Sagar, but the first 1000 meters were so threatened by avalanches and of such bad rock that we changed and attempted the south ridge of Meru. After nine days of alpine-style climbing (UIAA grades III to VI + ) Luca Grazzini, Paolo Camplani and I got to a 5700-meter high point on the ridge. Because of the monsoon weather and a lack of food, we turned back, still nearly 1000 meters from the summit. The upper snowfield did not appear to be too difficult.

Donatello Amore, Club Alpino Italiano