Annapurna. After our ascent of Nanga Parbat, Fausto De Stefani, Almo Giambisi and I headed for Nepal, to climb the normal route on the north side of Annapurna. Well acclimatized from Nanga Parbat, we quickly established Camp I at 5000 meters and made a carry to 5500 meters. Then the weather turned bad and the avalanche danger was great. As we waited in Base Camp, a large French expedition appeared, including the legendary Maurice Herzog, who had made the first ascent of an 8000er by the very route we were trying. After another week of waiting, we decided on a rapid ascent from Camp I. We set out from a 5500-meter bivouac and climbed in a single day to 7000 meters, where we bivouacked. The next day, September 21, we ascended to the summit and descended to bivouac again at 7000 meters. We were back in Base Camp in two more days. Our joy lasted very little time since the very strong French climber, Benoît Grison, fell on the unclimbed northwest ridge and died.

Sergio Martini, Club Alpino Italiano