South America, Argentine–Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre, East Face, 1986

Publication Year: 1986.

Cerro Torre, East Face, 1986. A nine-man Slovene expedition led by Stane Klemenc has completed what must be one of the most difficult climbs anywhere. Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo, Franc Knez, Pavle Kozjek, Peter Podgomik and Matjaž Fištrovec completed the new route, the east face of Cerro Torre on January 16, 1986. They established Base Camp on Laguna Torre at 660 meters on December 11, bivouacked at the foot of the face at 1990 meters on the 12th and began the climb on December 13. In the 35 days they were in the area, the weather was good enough for climbing on only 14 days. (UIAA VII to VIII+, A3 and A4.) On January 15, 1986 another Slovene team reached the summit, climbing the Maestri route. The climbers were Bogdan Bišcak, Rado Fabjan and Matevž Lenarcic.

Franci Savenc, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia