Everest. An expedition of eight Netherlanders was led by Herman Plugge. They set up Base Camp on August 31 but claim they were prevented for a few days by the Nepalese clean-up group from using the route the latter had just opened through the icefall. They came to an agreement, set up Camp I on September 8 and placed three more high camps, the highest being Camp IV on the South Col. Bart Vos went alone to the summit on October 8 after the expedition’s only woman, Mariska Mourets, turned back at 8600 meters when her oxygen supply ran out. This is an altitude record for Dutch women. Ganesh Gurung stopped at the south summit. Although Vos’ oxygen was also finished there, he continued on and reached the summit at 4:30 P.M.

Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley