American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Fernow, North Face Ice Apron Variation

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1984

Fernow, North Face Ice Apron Variation. The north face of Femow was climbed rather indirectly in 1961 by the Prater-Wickwire party, the last 500 feet of the headwall being avoided by a westward traverse. On a cold September 30 Dave Beckstead, Mark Hutson, and I found the ice apron (finger) in good condition as we cramponed to its head. A snow-and-ice gully bore leftward, from where we climbed steep, loose and cold rock to just beneath the summit. By taking the boat up Lake Chelan, the church bus to Holden Village, and a route along the east side of Big Creek, we made the round trip in a comfortable three days.

Fred Beckey

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