Dragontail, Northwest Face. In early April John Wasson and I climbed a route on Dragontail to the right of Serpentine Arête. We started the climb on a thin ice smear, and the next four pitches were on good ice leading up to a big snowfield. At the top of the snowfield we climbed a hard mixed pitch, then up and left to meet Serpentine two mixed pitches from the top. We spent the night on the summit. Grade IV.

Tim Wilson