Tirich Mir West I. Our expedition was made up of Salvador Boix, Joan Hugas, Pere Planas, Josep Aliu and me as leader. After a four-day approach from Lunku, we placed Base Camp on July 18 at 15,425 feet on the moraine on the right bank of the Upper Tirich Glacier. We placed Camps I, II and III at 18,050, 19,850 and 21,325 feet on July 20, 26 and 30 respectively. On August 4 Boix and I climbed to the col between Tirich Mir and Tirich Mir West I, where we installed Camp IV at 23,625 feet. On August 5 we two ascended the ridge to the summit of Tirich Mir West I (7487 meters, 24,564 feet). We had fixed rope on the difficult spots between Camps III and IV. Aliu had to descend to 10,000 feet with pulmonary edema, but he was later able to rejoin the expedition.

Ramón Estiu, Unió Excursionista de Catalunya