American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Chile—Central Andes, Marmolejo, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1983

Marmolejo, North Face. Juan Pardo, Dagoberto Peña, Nelson Rivera, Cristián Peña and I made the first ascent of the 7000-foot-high north face of Marmolejo (6100 meters, 20,013 feet), which had resisted four previous attempts. On February 1 we climbed a spur of loose 50° rock and across nieves penitentes to camp at 15,750 feet. We then climbed a hanging glacier to camp a second night at 17,050 feet. On February 3 in twelve hours we climbed to the summit, ascending the 40° to 55° ice slope and a final 1250-foot rotten-rock face. We descended the same route.

IvÁN Vigouroux, Federatión de Andinismo de Chile

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