Fairweather, Carpé Ridge, and “Sabine.” On June 5 Ton Hoeneveld, Roel Mulder and I were flown to the beach just southeast of Cape Fairweather. It took us eight days to transport our loads through the woods and over the Fairweather Galcier to Base Camp at 4700 feet above the upper icefall on the south of the glacier just opposite Fairweather. Till then, the weather had been unsettled and more rain and snow followed. Fortunately on June 21 the skies cleared. We left Base Camp at four A.M. on June 22, crossed the glacier and followed the Carpé Ridge to camp at six P.M. below a 50-foot rock spur. After a 4:30 start the next morning, windpacked snow gave ideal conditions. The weather still was magnificent, with so little wind that we nearly got sunstruck. Mulder didn’t feel well and decided to stay behind. At 6:30 P.M. Hoeneveld and I arrived at the summit. We were back in our high camp at midnight. The weather stayed beautiful to our surprise for the next five days. We stayed in our high camp for another day to enjoy the views. On the way down we took a line east of the Carpé Ridge, mostly through snowfields that brought us to a rock buttress, where we needed one abseil to get down. On June 28 Mulder and I left Base Camp for the northwest ridge of “Sabine” (3172 meters, 10,405 feet). We hit the ridge a few hundred feet above Base Camp. It was a very pretty, classic snow ridge with a few rock steps and a few steep ice sections at the end. On June 30 we headed out to the ocean. Just below the icefall Mulder broke his shinbone, and so it took us four days to get back to the beach.
Han Timmers, Koninklijke Nederlandse Alpen Vereniging