South America, Peru, Artesonraju, South Face

Publication Year: 1982.

Artesonraju, South Face. Our expedition comprised five members of the Club Andino Peruano. We crossed Laguna Parón by boat and ascended toward the Pirámide de Garcilaso, but we were surprised to discover that the north side of this mountain was now not an ice problem, but a rock problem, for which we were not equipped. We therefore changed our objective and chose instead the south face of Artesonraju. We placed a high camp at 17,200 feet and on August 20 B. Morales and I set out, encountering soft snow in most of the route and hard, blue ice in the last 1000 feet. We reached the top with strong winds.

Américo Tordoya, Club Andino Peruano