South America, Peru, Peaks on the Cashan Ridge and Other Peaks, 1980
Peaks on the Cashan Ridge and Other Peaks, 1980. Ascents of Allpamayo and Kitaraju with James O’Neill prepared me for late-season soloing in August, 1980 after the departure of my partner. Reconnaissance of the west face of Huantsán from the Quebrada Rajucolta prompted me to investigate a more prudent line on Cashan Este. After reaching the glacier at the base of that peak, I decided it looked uninteresting and so I began instead by climbing the steep granite of the north-northwest face of the second minor summit east of Cashan Oeste. After I reached the summit, unable to downclimb reasonably, I was compelled to move east toward Cashan Este. The climbing on the ridge was delicate and exposed, with the conditions varying from waist-deep corn snow to towers of blue water ice. I spent the night en route, without sleeping gear or food, and reached the summit of Cashan Este early on the second day. I descended the northeast face. The climb provided some of the most interesting, gymnastic and thought-provoking problems I have yet encountered in climbing ice. In mid-September I climbed Chopicalqui via the west ridge. Beginning in mid-morning from 16,000 feet, I made the summit by sunset and descended through the séracs and ice forms of the Llanganuco Glacier by moonlight. Finally, I reached the top of Huascarán Sur via the Garganta on September 30, 1980 after several days of climbing.
Peter J. Millar, Unaffiliated