Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir West IV, Southwest Face

Publication Year: 1978.

Tirich Mir West IV, Southwest Face. An Italian expedition led by Tullio Vidoni was composed of Danilo Saettone, Gian Luigi Sterna, Gian Piero Soster, Emilio De Tomasi, Alberto Ezio, Gianni Calcagno and me. We left Chitral by jeep on July 5 and drove to Mush Gol below the Zani An. After crossing this pass, we continued through Shagrom, past Atak and up the Tirich Glacier to Base Camp at 15,750, which we reached on July 10. Camp I was placed at 19,000 feet on the upper Tirich Glacier and Camp II at 20,000 feet right below the rocky 4000-foot southwest face. The first 2000 feet of the wall were reconnoitered and 3500 feet of rope were fixed on the red granite slabs and ice chimneys. After the initial snow couloir, the first part of the face offered sustained technically difficult rock climbing with no objective dangers. On July 20 Calcagno, De Tomasi and I headed up the face from Camp II and reached the end of the fixed rope at noon. Ezio was suffering from stomach troubles and had stayed behind. The face was easier above and we ascended a large snow couloir. We decided to bivouac at 22,650 feet at six P.M. rather than to descend. Without enough bivouac equipment or food, the night was long and uncomfortable. We set off early. At eleven o’clock, they were amazed to be overtaken by Ezio, now recovered. The final obstacle was a 650-foot snow couloir, which was in miserable condition. This led close to the summit. I quit there, but the other three continued, arriving on top at 3:15 P.M. on July 21. On July 22 Vidoni left Camp II and climbed solo to the summit. This was a completely new route, the Spaniards in 1976 having climbed the peak from the col between Tirich IV and III.

Costantino Piazzo, Club Alpino Italiano