Mount Logan, Warbler Ridge or East-Southeast Buttress of East Peak. Our expedition was made up of the Canadians Jay Page, Frank Baumann, Fred Thiessen and me and the Swiss René Bucher. We called our route “Warbler Ridge” because of several visits to camp of a warbler. We were landed on the Seward Glacier on May 24. From Base Camp, Advanced Base was established at the bottom of the ridge. From there we ascended a couloir to the crest of the ridge and then followed a series of steep couloirs, beneath and parallel to the crest to below a gendarme at about 11,000 feet. The ridge was double corniced. It took fifth-class climbing to turn the gendarme on the south side, but we bypassed this with a 250-foot Tyrolean traverse to the intervening col. From there it was relatively straightforward to the top of the minor summit where the buttress bifurcates (Camp IV). From there we climbed the main ridge, which was also in some places double corniced. We made a track along the fracture line as in general the slopes below the fracture were very steep blue ice. The climbing was varied and exposed with some mixed rock and ice and occasional ice steps formed by larger cornices. We had three camps here, two on cornices. At about 15,000 feet the ridge joins a face, which is the final difficulty and required care. Frost-fractured rock and shallow snow made it hard to protect. Once above the face, a minor ice bulge led to a 1000-foot slope and our top camp in the col beneath the east peak at 17,500 feet. We all reached the main summit on June 19 and one person climbed the east peak. We descended the east ridge in three days and nights in poor weather and low visibility. Egress was up the Seward, down the Hubbard to the east arm and thence over into the Kaskawulsh, where we were picked up by helicopter and taken to Kluane on June 29.

David Jones