North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Premiere Buttress, The Phoenix

Publication Year: 1978.

Premiere Buttress, The Phoenix. In March Don Reid and I climbed this route that starts in an obvious left-slanting crack system several hundred feet right of the Beckey-Goechoel route. Difficult climbing over decomposing rock leads to a belay ledge with a bush. A short section of aid is necessary on the second pitch to reach a right-slanting crack leading to a hidden ledge. We worked up, then right, then ascended a chimney to easier climbing. NCCS III, F9, A2.

Alan Bartlett, Buff Alpine Club