American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Barrille, Southeast Couloir, and Peaks Above the Ruth Glacier, 1975

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1977

Barrille, Southeast Couloir, and Peaks Above the Ruth Glacier, 1975. We members of the Bone and Skin Club (Hone to Kawa in Japanese), Teruaki Segawa, Kansei Suga, Masayuki Suemasa and I, had hoped to climb the west ridge of Huntington, but glacier conditions made us change to the east ridge. On July 9, 1975 we started fixing ropes up the ice wall. On the 12th an avalanche came over us but luckily everyone escaped. It is regrettable that the plan flew out together with this avalanche. Having stopped giving a sheep’s eye to Huntington, we headed for the southwest ridge of P 11,300, north of Huntington on the night of July 14. It took 17 pitches to get to our high camp. From there we made a 24-hour round trip to the summit. Finally on July 18 we finished descending this long ridge, which had first been climbed by the Swiss Allemann and Lötschner in 1968 (A.A.J., 1969, pages 372– 3). After retiring to Sheldon’s Mountain House and meeting the party just off the Moose’s Tooth, we set off on July 25 after the rain stopped. We went through the Gateway around Barrille, now white with snow, to where we could see the bottom of the southeast couloir rising into the clouds. We reached the rock terrace about midnight and slept until dawn. On the 26th we climbed some 70° ice in a chimney. The chimney led to the col and we traversed over the snow face to reach the top. On the north ridge of Barrille and left of the Gateway is a small rock peak, which rises 1000 feet. On the evening of July 28 we climbed to the steep rock wall and attacked it. We bivouacked for a couple of hours before completing this difficult rock climb the next morning. We were stormed in at the Mountain House for two days before Hudson could fly us out.

Eiji Tsai, Hone to Kawa, Kobe, Japan

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