South America, Bolivia, Condoriri, Huayna Potosí, Huacaña and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, Sajama, and Parinacota (Chile)

Publication Year: 1976.

Condoriri, Huayna Potosí, Huacaña and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, Sajama, and Parinacota (Chile). Our Bayerische Naturfreunde (Bavarian Friends of Nature) expedition was composed of Theo Dowbenka, Alois Wolfram, Peter Rotter, Heinrich Handel, Josef Klingshirn and me as leader. We first unsuccessfully attempted a route on Condoriri (18,531 feet) from the southeast but were beaten back by the weather and new snow. On May 17 Rotter and Händel climbed by its north slope P 5328 (17,481 feet), south of Condoriri Oeste. On May 20 and 21 all of us but Rotter climbed Condoriri Oeste (18,149 feet) by its western ridge and descended the north face. Rotter climbed Estaño (16,897 feet) solo by its west face on May 22. We moved to the Huayna Potosí group, where we all climbed Huayna Potosí (19,996 feet) by its east ridge and east face. Dowbenka and Wolfram went on to the slightly lower south summit. We then traveled north to Huacaña (20,360 feet), which Dowbenka and I climbed on June 12 by its east ridge. On June 8 Dowbenka and Wolfram climbed by its southwest side P 5121 (16,801 feet), north of Lago San Francisco; Dowbenka continued solo along the ridge to the north over P 5315 and P 5329 (17,438 and 17,484 feet). On the 9th Klingshirn climbed P 5111 and P 5390 (16,768 and 17,684 feet), northeast of the lake, while Dowbenka climbed by its east side P 5380 (17,651 feet), which lies 2½ miles north of the north end of the lake. Rotter repeated this on June 11. On June 12 Händel and Wolfram climbed P 5963 (19,564 feet) by its west face; this lies a mile east of Huacaña. Also on June 12 Klingshirn soloed three peaks northwest of the lake from south to north: P 5185, P 5196 and P 5297 (17,012, 17,048, and 17,379 feet). We had to call our stay short because of nightly raids by shepherds. We then climbed to within about 250 feet of the top of Sajama but were turned back by storms. On June 27 Dowbenka and Wolfram climbed the northeast slope of Parinacota (20,768 feet), across the frontier in Chile.

Herbert Ziegenhardt, Bayerische Naturfreunde