South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Ishinca, Urus Este

Publication Year: 1973.

Ishinca, Urus Este. My wife Lena and I with the porter Marcelino Vargas spent two weeks based at 13,800 feet in the Quebrada Ishinca. On June 7 we climbed Ishinca (18,143 feet) via the southwest ridge, finding a 100-foot difficult snow wall just below the summit. On June 8 we climbed P 5160 (16,929 feet) west of the Quebrada Yamaraju; we found no sign of earlier climbers on this easy rock peak. On June 10 we climbed Urus Este (17,782 feet) by its east ridge. Our attempt on Tocllaraju failed. Crevasses blocked the normal route to the northwest ridge; our new route went left above the bergschrund and up the west wall to the ridge. Fog and bad weather turned us back 600 feet below the top.

Anders Karlqvist, Svenska Fjällklubben