Premiere Buttress. The first climb of this sloping, rounded buttress, just above the last road switchback at Whitney Portal, was made on November 17 by Brian Gochoel and me in 5½ leads. The rock is excellent granite, with numerous chickenheads that make friction climbing possible over the entire route except at a 4-bolt ladder. We used 9 pitons and 5 nuts, plus three additional bolts to protect 5.7 and 5.8 friction slabs.

Fred Beckey