South America, Peru, Other Ranges, Jirishanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and Verónica, Cordillera Urubamba and Other Peaks in Both Ranges

Publication Year: 1968.

Jirishanca, Cordillera Huayhuash and Verónica, Cordillera Urubamba and Other Peaks in Both Ranges. Our team consisted of six members from Japan, Hirishi Furuhata, Nobuyoshi Kobayashi, Tomoaki Kato, Yoji Wachi, Koichi Iwatani and myself as leader, and Franz Oestemer from Chile. We left Chiquián on June 23 with one porter, H. Arbaiza and 33 asses to carry our ton of equipment. After three days we reached Mitucocha and set up Base Camp. In 45 days we climbed a number of peaks. With four bitter bivouacs on narrow and steep places above our camp at 15,400 feet on the upper part of the Jirishanca Glacier, on June 27 Kato and I climbed Jirishanca Grande (20,099 feet), the same day on which Iwatani and Oestemer climbed Jirishanca Chico (17,937 feet). On July 10 Furuhata, Kobayashi, Wachi and Iwatani climbed Paria (16,968 feet). Ninashanca (18,495 feet) was climbed on July 23 by Furuhata and Wachi and on August 2 by Iwatani and Oestemer. Jirishanca Chico Oeste (17,290 feet) was climbed on July 18 by Iwatani and Furuhata and on July 27 by Kobayashi and the Peruvian H. Arbaiza. Kobayashi and Arbaiza climbed Gayoc Chico (16,404 feet) just north of Cacanan Pass on August 2 and Furuhata and Kato ascended Carhuaraju (16,410 feet) northeast of Jirishanca Chico on August 5. After climbing in the Cordillera Huayhaush, we visited the Cordillera Urubamba. Only the Japanese went. We left Cuzco for Chillca by truck on August 24. We made Base Camp there at 9000 feet and stayed until September 12. On Verónica (18,865 feet, this altitude may well be about 300 feet too low.—Editor.) it took three bivouacs; Iwatani and I reached the summit on September 6. Furuhata and Kato climbed "Bonomia” (16,765 feet) on August 30 and Kobayashi and Wachi ascended "Marconi” (17,520 feet) on September 4, both with two bivouacs. It was not good weather during our period there and we had rain or snow almost every day.

Hajime Tanaka, Tokyo University of Agriculture and Technology