North America, Greenland, Mount Forel Region, East Greenland

Publication Year: 1968.

Mount Forel Region, East Greenland. The Imperial College East Greenland Expedition went as a sequel to the Imperial College Expedition to the same area last year. (A.A.J., 1967, 15:2, pp. 377-8.) Our 1967 expedition intended to attempt as many of the unclimbed peaks as possible and to continue glaciological work which had been started on the Paris Glacier the previous year. We consisted of the following: M. C. Clark, C. M. Holt, R. J. Peckham, G. J. Pert, R. G. Swainson and me. Because of the long time needed for the walk in by the normal route, we decided to use a new route to the Mount Forel region, sledging straight up the Glacier de France from its snout at the head of Kargerdlugssuatsiaq. This proved much quicker and easier than previous routes but again an accident delayed us. However we set up a camp on the north side of the Avantgarden Glacier from which we managed to climb all the major peaks of the Avantgarden with the exception of Navigation. Almost Flat Top (2900 meters or 9519 feet) was climbed by Peckham and me on August 13 from a col between it and Table Top, a pleasant snow and ice climb taking six hours from the glacier to the summit. Flat Top took Holt and Swainson ten hours on the 13th via the south ridge, which was unpleasantly gendarmed. Double Top, climbed by Clark and Peckham on August 15, took six hours from the Avantgarden Glacier, the route following a subsidiary glacier running north between it and “Stephensons-bjerg” and the northeast ridge, an enjoyable mixed snow and rock climb. Very similar was the ascent of “Stephensonsbjerg” (3240 meters or 10,630 feet) by Clark and me on August 17, the subsidiary glacier being followed to the same col and the southwest ridge to the summit taking eight hours from the main glacier. This peak is the third highest in Greenland. On the same day Holt and Peckham climbed two smaller and as yet unnamed peaks on the south of the Avantgarden Glacier as a reconnaissance for further excursions there, but unfortunately bad weather prevented any more climbing. There is some confusion in nomenclature in this region, Flat Top and Double Top being more appropriate to the peaks next to them, Table Top and “Stephensonsbjerg” respectively. We named the peak marked on the Geodaetisk Institut 1:250,000 map 66 ö 2 as 3240 meters "Stephensonsbjerg” in honour of the first mapper of this region on the British Arctic Air Route Expedition 1931, who as chairman of the College Exploration Board gave us much valuable assistance. In addition to the glaciological work on the Paris Glacier, geological and botanical collections were made. Before going into the interior, we climbed three peaks from Base Camp beside the snout of the Glacier de France: Pussugsivit (2072 meters or 6798 feet; 66° 28' N, 35° 50' W), first climbed by the Swiss in 1966, on July 31 by Clark, Peckham, Swainson and me via the difficult south ridge in seven hours from camp on the corrie glacier below; “Plesnersbjerg” (1750 meters or 7242 feet) from the same camp up the northwest face by Clark and me on August 2; “Sentinel Peak” (1970 meters or 6464 feet )by Clark, Holt and me from July 25 to 27, taking 22 hours to ascend from a bivouac above our sea-level camp. Heights are quoted from the Danish Geodaetisk Institut maps 66 ö 2 1:50,000 and 1:250,000. Peaks in quotation marks were named by Imperial College expeditions; others are taken from the maps or from previous expeditions’ reports. All climbs are first ascents unless otherwise stated.

J. Chadwick, Imperial College