North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Eisenhower, Southeast Tower, West Face Direct

Publication Year: 1968.

Mount Eisenhower, Southeast Tower, West Face Direct. A new route on the west face of Castle Tower (the southeast tower of Mount Eisenhower) was ascended by Ed Peyer and me on July 1. The climb began in a fair-sized couloir below the center of the face. We were soon forced out to a rib on the left, where a shallow chimney topped by a severe overhang was climbed. The next lead was an easy 90-foot traverse to the left, followed by a diagonal pitch to the right. One pitch higher, a traverse right enabled us to rappel into the original couloir about halfway up the face. The next lead was up an icy, overhanging chimney. After about 100 feet the chimney became unclimbable and we traversed out to the right and up the edge of a huge flake. A severe vertical pitch was then climbed a little further right on the wall. Above the wall, we proceeded left for a few feet, then up an easier corner with an overhang at the finish to the summit. NCCS II/III, F7.

Richard W. Lofthouse