Harvard Mountaineering Club

Publication Year: 1967.

Harvard Mountaineering Club, The past year added another year to a sequence of active ones. During the summer members participated in expeditions in the Yukon, Alaska, and South America. In the St. Elias Range, Boyd Everett’s expedition made the first traverse of King Peak via a new ascent route and also climbed Mount Logan via the West Glacier route. In Alaska Rick Millikan and Dave Roberts made the first ascent of the highest peak of the Cathedral Spires, an ascent of extreme technical difficulty. Bob Bates, Ad Carter, his son Larry (Harvard ’70) and Eric Shipton attempted Mount Russell, but were repulsed by bad weather. In Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, Richard Goody climbed the three Pilancos, Quitaraju (19,825 feet), and Tayapama (18,700 feet), a first ascent. Further south Leif-Norman Patterson led the first ascent of the west face of Yerupajá (21,759 feet).

Back in New England the club made good use of the rest of the year. Rock climbing at Quincy Quarries, Cannon Mountain, Cathedral, Joe English, and the Shawangunks filled the spring and fall week ends. During the winter, members chopped routes up the ice gullies of Huntington Ravine, and for the first time in H.M.C. history the annual winter traverse of the Presidential Range in New Hampshire was accomplished from the south. Sizable crowds attended lectures in Cambridge on climbs in North and South America and Asia, and as an innovation Boyd Everett gave a seminar on Alaskan expeditions. In the spring the club moved to spacious new quarters in Claverly Hall.

Edwin M. Bernbaum, President